Raising Angora Rabbits: My Best Tips and Supplies

Angora rabbits are unique to other rabbit breeds because of their long, soft coats. Because of this, they need special food, housing, care, and supplies. Here are my best tips and supplies for raising angora rabbits.

Disclaimer: Many of the links in this post are affiliate links. As an Amazon associate, if you make a purchase after clicking on one of these links, I may make a small commission at no cost to yourself. All of these items are either the exact items I’ve used, or close replacements, unless otherwise noted.

Food and Water

Rabbit Feed Pellets

All rabbits need food, and most rabbit owners choose rabbit pellets to feed their pets. Rabbit pellets are a great option because they are nutritionally balanced. However, most rabbit pellets do not contain enough protein for angora rabbits. Angora rabbits require extra protein in their diet because they use so much energy to grow their long, beautiful, fluffy coats. You will need a rabbit pellet with at least 17% protein. I don’t have access to any such pellets in my area, so I order mine online. I use the feed called “Blue Seal Home Fresh Show Hutch Deluxe 17,” and it has been wonderful for my rabbitry.

Hay

Angora rabbits need access to timothy hay, or a similar hay, 24/7. Alfalfa is not the same thing as hay, and is not suitable for daily feeding, but can be an occasional treat. Too much alfalfa can cause obesity, urinary stones, and other health problems. Hay helps keep rabbits’ teeth filed down, and provides roughage in the digestive system to keep things moving along.

With their long coats, angora rabbits are at high risk for “wool block,” a condition where shed hairs are ingested during self grooming, and the hairs build up in the digestive system and create a blockage. This blockage is often fatal. Many animals ingest shed hairs while grooming themselves, but they are able to cough up the hairs (cats are well known for this.) Unfortunately, rabbits are not physically capable of throwing up, so whatever goes in, must come out on the other end, or the rabbit will die.

Water

Angora rabbits need a constant supply of fresh, clean water. You can use a water bottle, bowl, or water system (I’ve never tried the system.) Some rabbits will flip over their water bowls for fun, so if you choose a bowl, watch them to make sure they always have water. Some rabbits also manage to get water all over themselves when they use a bowl, which can cause matts in their long fur. I prefer using water bottles for this reason. However, water bottles are more difficult to drink from, and some rabbits can become dehydrated. Watch your rabbit and their water bottle level closely, to make sure they are getting enough. A good compromise are these water bottles that dispense water in a little dish, which is easier/faster to drink from, and can’t be spilled. If you live in a place that freezes regularly in winter, you may want to invest in a heated water bottle. I’m lucky enough to not need these in Louisiana.

Feeders and Hay Racks

You can use any heavy bowl for rabbit pellets, however, I prefer these J-shaped feeders because they prevent rabbits from digging in their pellets and spilling them. I also love them, and these hay racks, because they hang outside the cages and give the rabbits more space.

A Safe Home

I prefer raising my rabbits in separate wire cages. However, I know a few people who raise angora rabbits together in a colony style enclosure on the ground. A colony-style setup will provide your rabbits with a more natural lifestyle, however, there are some risks. In a colony setup, you might encounter more matts and dirty, unusable fiber, more fighting and injuries, and more disease. Decide what risks you are willing to take, and experiment with the type of enclosure you think you will prefer.

Angora rabbits do really well in wire cages. They will need LARGE cages –mine are 36 inches by 30 inches, and 18 inches tall. If you are raising the smaller angora rabbit breeds (English and Satin) you could get away with slightly smaller cages, but bigger is always better.

Wire cages provide excellent ventilation, which is crucial for all rabbits. Rabbits have very sensitive respiratory systems and need clean, fresh, dust free air to stay healthy.

Wire Floors: Healthy or Not?

Wire floors allow the rabbit’s waste to drop down below their feet, either onto a removable tray, or onto the ground, so they aren’t walking on their waste. Urine-soaked bedding can transfer urine to the rabbit’s feet or butt, especially if the rabbit has a long fur coat, causing urine scalding and sore hocks. It can also attract flies, which may lay eggs on the rabbit’s skin. Maggots will hatch out and consume the flesh of the rabbit. This is called fly strike, and it’s deadly. Keeping my rabbits’ feet and butts clean and dry is a major priority for me, and that’s why I use wire floors.

However, when using wire floors, be sure to provide spaces for the rabbits to rest their feet. You can buy plastic matts especially made for this, or just put a ceramic tile or cardboard box in the rabbit’s cage. Be sure to clean these items regularly. I use both the plastic matts and cardboard boxes, and honestly they don’t seem to use the plastic matts much. Their feet are clean and healthy and free of sores.

Bedding

My wire cages have removable trays to collect waste. After cleaning out a tray, I sprinkle on about 1/2 cup of these wooden pellets. They absorb urine so it doesn’t slosh around when I empty the trays. It also reduces the smell of the urine. I also sprinkle about 1/4 cup of this powder called Sweet PDZ to reduce the smell of urine. A strong urine smell is not healthy for rabbits to breathe in.

Cage Tools

If you choose to use wire cages, you might want to purchase a pair of j hook pliers, and a pair of flush wire cutters, and a metal rasp. These tools come in handy if you decide to install feeders, change your door size, or make other adjustments.

A Place to Run

Rabbits require exercise to be healthy and happy. You will need a safe place for your angora rabbit to run and play. These foldable wire pens are great. You could also build a rabbit run using hardware cloth, which is sturdy and mostly predator-proof. Be sure the area is shaded (shade cloth is useful.) Depending on your setup, you might want a litter box. You’ll need separate water and food bowls for your exercise pen. And don’t forget to add the fun stuff: logs, cardboard boxes, tunnels, and toys.

Grooming Supplies

Angora rabbits have unique grooming needs. Their long coats need to be kept clean and free of shed has and matts for several weeks at a time. About every three months, they will need to be sheared or plucked to remove their coat. Here is my method and supplies:

When your angora rabbit’s coat is beginning to get long, about 2 inches, begin blowing them out weekly. You will need a grooming table, and a pet blower. Blowing out a rabbit might seem silly, but it is very effective. It removes shed hairs, dirt, and forming matts. It also allows you to have a good look at their skin condition. If you see any matts that won’t blow out, you can attempt to comb them out, or just cut them out. If you see signs of mites on the skin (white flakes or bald patches) you can treat them immediately (see Ivermectin, below.)

When your rabbit’s coat is long enough to shear (at least 4 inches is my preference,) blow them out first. Then shear using these clippers. I have tried three different clippers and these are the only ones that will cut through the bunny fluff. Angora rabbits have extremely thick, fine hair, and most pet clippers are built for the more coarse, slippery hair of dogs and cats. Trust me and buy these clippers! I recommend having a backup pair too. The downside to these clippers is that you can’t replace the blades or battery. I find that these clippers last about one year in my rabbitry, and then I buy new ones. I don’t love that, but it is what it is.

As you are shearing, try to shear in one smooth pass, which prevents creating short “second cuts.” You want your fiber to be long and roughly all one length. Shear in one smooth pass, gather the fiber in one hand, shake out any second cuts, and put the handful of fiber into a basket. If you shear off shorter, dirty, or matted fiber, throw it on the floor. You may find grooming scissors useful. Repeat until your bunny is naked! I always weight each rabbit’s fluff with a kitchen scale and keep track of how much they produce. As you shear, be very careful not to nick the rabbit’s loose, delicate skin. You will get better and faster with practice. I plan to create a detailed rabbit shearing video soon. I personally do not pluck my rabbits, so I can’t speak to that.

When I was first learning to shear my rabbits, I wore these arm protectors because I was nervous about bites and scratches. They gave me confidence, and I recommend them. However, now I just wear a long sleeved jacket. For the most part my bunnies are well behaved during shearing, but I have been scratched from time to time.

You will also need to trim your rabbit’s nails every month or so. I prefer this type of nail trimmer.

Medical Supplies

For a rabbit who is not eating, this pureed food can be a lifesaver. It can be fed via a syringe if necessary. I keep a pack in my freezer.

Ivermectin is a liquid parasite med for livestock. Use an eye dropper to smear a tiny drop on the back of your angora rabbit’s neck, every two weeks, to prevent mites. Or just use it to treat mites as you find them (treat every two weeks until gone.)

Vetricyn is an antibiotic spray for small wounds. If you nick your rabbit during shearing, spray this on the cut. It happens, and it will be ok.

Cleaning Supplies

Disenfectant wipes are useful for quickly cleaning food bowls and water bottles. You can also wash them in a sink with a bit of bleach.

A propane torch is the easiest way to clean built up hair and hay from wire cages (be careful! remove the rabbit first, and don’t burn yourself.) It also sterilizes.

A hose with a powerful spray nozzle, or a pressure washer, are great for hosing down wire cages and trays. I do this once a week, sometimes twice if flies are a problem. I also use the pressure washer to clean the cement floor of my rabbit run.

Other Supplies

For years I kept my rabbits in an insulated shed with this air conditioner. It was easy to install and kept the temperature very comfortable. It’s also a heater, so I set it to keep my rabbits’ water from freezing in the winter.

A fan is a great thing to have when it’s hot. I run fans for my rabbits 24/7 in the hottest months of summer.

If you want to breed your angora rabbits, you will need nesting boxes. Make sure they are the appropriate size for your breed.

This book is a great resource.

I highly recommend buying a drop spindle and learning to spin yarn from your rabbit’s fluff!

Conclusion

When I was first researching angora rabbits, I would have loved to find a blog post like this, so I’m grateful for the chance to help new bunny owners out by publishing this. Again, there are many ways to raise healthy angora rabbits, and this is my way. I hope this information is useful to you. Let’s keep those bunnies healthy and happy, and harvest lots of gorgeous angora fiber!